A lesson in erotica: Sculptures of Tiruvannamalai tank lie forgotten
shanmugha Sundaram J / Oct 22, 2018
Long before sexual expression was considered taboo and sensuality vulgar, intimate scenes were etched into temples across the country. While some were carved in between other images of mythology, others were more elaborately displayed as found in the Unesco recognized Khajuraho group of temples in Madhya Pradesh or the Konark Sun temple in Odisha.
In Tamil Nadu, a four-century old tank, Chinnayan Kulam, 40km from Tiruvannamalai town, stands as a testament to the celebration of erotica.
More than 100 bas-relief sculptures line the stone parapet walls around the tank
on the outskirts of the Chinnayan Pettai village. A reflection of the fine art of the
Vijayanagara and Nayaka period, it has survived the ravages of time. Though the tank
was declared a protected monument by the state archaeology department in 1988, the government failed to maintain it and explore its tourism potential, especially since it has a unique story.
According to the information board at the spot, “the erotic scenes engraved on the parapet wall are not found anywhere else in the state.” It was constructed in 16th or 17th century by Chinniyan Nayakar, chieftain of Chengam, who built the tank for his daughter to educate her in the art of erotica. “The daughter was believed to be uninterested in married life but after visiting the tank, primarily meant for bathing, she is said to have changed her mind and soon bore a child,” said R Segar history professor of Government Muthurangam Arts and Science College, Vellore. He added that newly-weds and childless couples used to visit Chinnayan Kulam occasionally, but a taboo developed around erotic sculptures and the villagers began staying away. Confirming with the records at the state archaeological department, an official said the tank and the village were named after the chieftain. A similar tank in Ravanthavadi, unrecognized by the state, lies in a dilapidated state, said Segar.
Stressing on the ancient perspective on carnal exploration, retired deputy director of Archaeological Survey of India K Karuppiah said, “Our ancestors chose temples to educate adults about lovemaking. We can find many erotic sculptures amid gods and goddess at temples, particularly in Vaishnava temples, in Pudukottai and several other parts of the state. Sculptures of similar nature are found in the tank in plenty,” he said.
According to archaeologists and historians, erotic sculptures are categorized into sacred (depicting gods and goddess in dalliance), ritual (cult and tantric) and secular (kamasutra). The sculptures in Chinnayan Kulam come under the last group. The parapet walls contain nude sculptures of men and women in different intimate positions, including group activities and bestiality. Though the focus is on erotica, scenes from epics like Ramayana, Mahabharata, landscapes, vignettes of social life and illustrations of warriors in combat or while hunting adorn the wall.
“The sculptures provide information about the ancient civilization. There was a ‘fertility worship’ cult in 12th century and Lajja Gauri in Dharmavaram is a fine example of the cult,” said archaeologist C Santhalingam, adding that such sites should be promoted for tourism.
When sites like Khajuraho attract tourists from across the world, these tanks in Tamil Nadu are an example of a wasted opportunity.
Differing from the archaeologists that erotic sculptures were an education tool, historian Chithra Madhavan said temples reflect the worldly life. “These types of art should be promoted for tourism. They will be appreciated by people interested in it.”
The officials had fenced the tank and erected an iron gate in 1988, but it was vandalized over the years. Officials said the tank was renovated and restrooms were constructed at the site at a cost of Rs24 lakh four years ago, but the facility was damaged again. “We have sent a proposal to renovate the tank again and requested to appoint a watchman for the tank,” said M Prakasam, curator at the archaeology office in Dharmapuri.
The district administration has also asked the state archaeology department to renovate Amma Kulam at Ravanthavadi and declare it a protected site. “The tank is smaller than the Chinnayanpettai one, but the sculptures and style of architecture is the same,” said collector K S Kandasamy.
Retired state tourism department official N Ravi said information on its historical importance, uniqueness and links to other tourism spots should be made available. “We have only talk about Mamallapuram, Thanjavur Madurai and forget that there are several lesser-known spots which show the diversity and richness of our culture,” he said.
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